(1) The Edenia, a fantastically remote hotel with 4-star service and Lago Argentino in the backyard, (2) the Perito Moreno Glacier, bigger than the entire city of Buenos Aires, (3) a friendly little iceberg we ran into on the all-glaciers tour, (4) crampons, red carpet hot, (5) the Spegazzini Glacier, as tall as a 24-story building.
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